"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..." --John Muir, 1898

Monday, August 13, 2007

Hike: Bushnell Lakes, Sangre de Cristo Wilderness

This weekend I backpacked solo to the Bushnell Lakes in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness. The hike was difficult, making me earn it, traversing through miles of the San Isabel National Forest
on a steep, rocky trail, until finally reaching the first of the series of three lakes, each higher than the last, situated in a narrow basin and walled in on three sides by lofty, seemingly impenetrable walls. Waterfalls abounded, each falling from the next highest lake as over stair steps. The diagonal fractures and strata of the southern wall rose starkly at least a thousand feet from the basin floor. One could only imagine the force required to lift it so long ago. At the western headwall of the cwm lay the highest, largest, and deepest lake, all of which I did not get a chance to see. Upon arrival at the second tarn, I was under the illusion for most of the afternoon that I was actually camping at the last lake, only discovering later that it was the smallest and shallowest of the three. I came to know this when I met the only other campers
in the basin, a man and his two sons, walking back from the upper lake carrying fishing poles and a string of beautiful cutthroat trout. I met no one else the rest of the weekend except for a few dayhikers in the forest on my way out sunday morning.




After a bit of exploring in the early evening, I settled down to cook dinner, but was interrupted
midway by the beginnings of what would turn out to be a very rainy evening. I ate in the tent,
listening to the thunderless rain and howling, gale-force winds outside. Several times I had to
go out in the rain to tie down the rainfly, which was set flapping by the wind due to a broken
plastic snap. I also rediscovered a small hole in the fly when I was awakened to drops of water
hitting my forehead.


The next morning was cool and breezy and clear, the sun glinting orange off the water of the tarn
below and selectively warming the surrounding walls of rock. The open east end of the basin
revealed layers of mountains in the distance, featureless in the morning mist. After breakfast
and a bit of journaling, I broke camp around 7:30, descending past my tarn and waterfall to the
first lake and waterfall below, then back into the forest. The woods were wet and aromatic and
rife with new mushrooms (post on this forthcoming), which distracted me from the pain of the pack
and my stumbling feet.





Evening at Hayden Creek






Entering the Wilderness





A valley along the way





The lower of the Bushnell Lakes





Lake and flowers





The second falls, just below my campsite





A view of the lakes from the talus field to the south





Waterfall at the first lake





Morning to the east
(No attempt to eliminate lens flare. ha ha)




10 comments:

Anonymous said...

Sweet photos, as always. I hope they never replace that Forest Service sign -- it's got a great vibe.

Kevin said...

Thanks! Yeah, I love those old signs. They don't make 'em like they used to. :o)

Carrie N said...

I could get lost in these photos... never quit snapping Kevin.

Kevin said...

Thanks, Carrie... Glad you enjoyed them; it's more fun to share them with friends!

Amy said...

Beautiful. It looks like a fantastic weekend. I agree with Lauren about the sign. It's got character.

I must admit that I did read one sentence wrong and it made me laugh out loud. I read it as "I ate the tent" instead of "I ate IN the tent."

Kevin said...

I was REALLY hungry that night.

Anonymous said...

Amy agrees with me?! That's a first.

Anonymous said...

Hi, Kevin. I am looking for information on Bushnell Lakes and my Google search led me to your post. I was camping at Cutty's last week when my group decided to head up towards the lakes. At first I did not want to go, knowing it was going to be difficult and my group most likely would not finish the journey. But while my group decided to turn around at the sign (I have a picture of it too!), I kept going with some teenagers. After an agonizing steep hike, we finally reached a level area which gave us momentum and relief from the steep rocky hike. We were sure we were finally close to a lake and found ourselves with renewed energy to run. However, to our disappointment, the trail led us to a large steep snow embankment which was slick and difficult to cross. It was late in the day and we were not prepared to cross it. Guessing that we were surely less than a mile from the lake, but being the only adult with two youngsters, I decided it was best to turn around and return to camp.

When I met up with my group back at camp, I said, "never again will I hike Bushnell Trail." However, back in Kansas now, I can't get that darn trail off my mind. Unwilling to accept the fact that the mountain defeated me, I am wanting to go back.

Can you help me determine how close I was to the first lake? And possibly provide me with more information about Bushnell. When I go back, I want to be better prepared so that I can finish the challenge.

Kevin said...

Hi, Julie. Sounds like you had a bit of an adventure! There may be quite a bit of snow yet at that altitude. If you made the turn-off onto the Bushnell Lakes trail, it's simply a matter of following it up to the lower lake. Perhaps the snow was covering the trail? I read a trail report from June that said just that.

If snow is covering the trail, you'll have to have a good map and compass or GPS (you should have one anyway!) to navigate your way, but the later you wait, the less snow.

At one point along the trail, about a mile or so before the first lake, you'll climb out of the forest and you can see the massive cirque below Bushnell Peak straight ahead. (Trust me, you can't miss that sight...) That's where you're aiming for, but you'll have to cross a talus field, go down through the forest again, and back up.

I have a feeling, from your description, you probably turned back at the talus field. If it is covered with snow, it would be pretty difficult to cross. The trail there is narrow. There are some old mining ruins there, if I remember correctly. If that's where you stopped, you only had a mile left to go. :o(

Sorry I can't be of more help. I hope you get back there and find the lakes; they're worth it!

Anonymous said...

Thanks, Kevin! That helps a lot. I think you are right in that I turned back at the talus field. (Forgive me as I'm an amateur and not very familiar with the lingo.) After a terribly steep hike, we crossed a lot of rock/boulders and then reached a big hole in the ground lined with large rocks. After that, the trail leveled off and we soon felt like we were going down instead of up. It was then that we hit a steep slope of snow and lost the trail. We were not prepared at all and lacked a compass among other things. It was frustrating to turn back, but crossing the snow looked dangerous and I was not sure what still lied ahead.

I am hoping to go back in August, but it may have to wait until next summer as I may not have a hiking partner until then. I truly appreciate your help. It's good to talk with someone who's been there ... and to see the pictures!