"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..." --John Muir, 1898

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Day 7: Toledo

Festive Cathedral square
Today I took a day trip by bus to Toledo.  The town's narrow, twisty streets and tall buildings proved what the guidebook had to say: "Toledo has Spain's most confusing medieval street plan."  Good grief, you aren't kidding.

In any case, there was plenty to see in Spain's former capital seated on a hill overlooking the Tajo river.

A wall hemming Toledo
What a beautiful, exhausting walk up from the valley to the old city
along the medieval walls.  After meandering (and getting lost in) the city's streets for a while, I toured the cathedral, one of Europe's best.  El Greco paintings in the sacristy, the Transparente, the high altar and choir, and the various side chapels all made this a fantastic visit.  However, many areas were closed or under construction, so there was a lot I didn't get to see.

I went to the Santa Cruz museum, as many do, to see their stunning collection of 15 paintings by El Greco, Toledo's famous son.  Probably the only museum during my whole trip that was free.  I love how they let you get close enough to the paintings to see the brushstrokes of a 400 year old master.

Overlooking the Tajo River
I stopped at an overlook of the Tajo river, where the hills were sprinkled with poplars and mansions with tiled roofs, and a 14th century bridge spanned the river.  I lay in the sun on the warm stone wall for about an hour before dropping by the San Juan de los Reyes Monastery.  Very quiet and reverent, with a fine cloister.  After more walking to see the ancient city walls, and after having a good dinner I took the bus back to Madrid.





Click here for the next day...

More images from the day


An entryway into the old city.

A festive street near the Toledo Cathedral.

Approaching the cathedral.

A view through the choir toward the altar inside the cathedral.  Both were closed.

The Transparente in the cathedral.  A hole in the ceiling bathes the sculpture in light.  For reference, Mary, seated in front holding Christ, is as tall as me.

Closer view of the Transparente.

San Juan de los Reyes Monastery.  Significant for many reasons, this monastery has a façade adorned with chains brought by the Christians who were shackled with them by the Moors.

Cloister of the monastery

Orange trees framed by one of the cloister's elegant openings.

A pair of doors leading into the monastery from the cloister.


Overlooking the Tajo River.

Part of the wall surrounding Toledo.

More of the wall

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Day 6: The Prado

The Prado museum in Madrid.  Sadly, the only image I have.
The Prado.  What can I say?  Is this the greatest museum of paintings in Europe?  Bruegel, Rubens, Velazquez, Titian, El Greco, Dürer, Goya: this place has it all when it comes to the European masters.

The Garden of Earthly Delights by Bosch (not my image)











Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights was mesmerizing in real life.  Three panels of exquisite, colorful bizarreness.  Velazquez's Las Meninas was a treat.  There are too many goodies here to list.








A painting that I came back to again and again?  Atalanta and Hippomenes by Guido Reni.  One of the most perfectly composed, most fluid paintings I've ever seen.  It is big, at nearly 10 feet wide by 7 feet high.

After the Prado, I retreated to Parque del Retiro.  Had a nice hike in the woods.  There is a pond there where you can rent rowboats, and a statue of Alfonso XII overlooking it all.



More images from the day

Entering Retiro Park

The pond

Boats for rent at the pond.

Statue of Alfonso XII

Columns


Days 4 and 5: Train to Madrid, Royal Palace

Today I took a four-hour ride to Madrid on the high-speed AVE train.  Did a little walking in the evening.  Not much to tell.




Next day I started off the morning with a pastry and coffee at the famous and frenetic La Mallorquina bakery.  It was worth pushing through the hordes to get at one of their napoleons.



I did a self-guided walking tour of the west side of town from Puerta del Sol: Plaza Mayor, the mesones, the Almudena cathedral, the Royal Palace, Plaza de Isabel II, and back to Puerta del Sol.

I quickly toured the Almudena cathedral in front of the Royal Palace.  It wasn't particularly worth the time except that I went up to the roof and was able to get some good shots of the Royal Palace.



The Royal Palace was grand and every bit as luxurious as Versailles
(except for the gardens).  Unfortunately, no cameras we allowed inside, so you'll have to take my word for it.  On a special note, the armory was positively amazing.  I'm not immensely interested in armor, swords, and other battle equipment, but this was a pretty fantastic display.

After a dinner of chicken, French fries, and eggs (surprisingly tasty), I strolled back to Plaza Mayor where I watched the crowds of people making the paseo (evening stroll) and sketched a bit of the façade in my journal.

Click here for the next day...

More images from the day


Sorry for the glare, but here are some delicious treats on display at La Mallorquina.

Another view of Plaza Mayor.

Side-street doorway.

The mesones--cave-like, rowdy bars--near the Mercado de San Miguel. 

The mesones.

Almudena Cathedral

Saint James having a moment with God on the roof of the Almudena Cathedral.

Royal Palace

Royal Palace entrance

I guess the Spaniards need to learn How to Win Friends and Influence People  as well.

Day 3: Barri Gótic, Picasso, and More Gaudí

The nave of the Cathedral of Barcelona
Today I did a self-guided tour of the Barri Gótic, Barcelona's Gothic quarter with historic plazas, churches, remnants of Barcelona's ancient Roman past, a cathedral, winding medieval streets, an old Picasso hangout, and more.

During the tour I visited the Cathedral of Barcelona.  The Romans built their temple to Jupiter here, which was replaced by a Christian cathedral, which was replaced by a Romanesque-style church, which was replaced with the current Gothic cathedral in the 14th century.




The First Communion
by Picasso (not my image)
I visited the Picasso Museum (art gallery) where I
gained a new appreciation for the artist and his work.  He wasn't just a cubist pioneer, although I've come to appreciate this form as well.  No pictures allowed in the museum, unfortunately.
Chimneys on the rooftop of Casa Milà

I then went to Casa Milà, another Gaudí creation.  It's an apartment complex with (no surprise) fantastical modernista creations, especially on the roof, and a pretty neat museum in the "attic".  Gaudí rocks.




To wrap up my evening, I went to the Bocqueria market just off the Ramblas and purchased some bread, sausage, and cheese for making sandwiches on the train the next day.


More images from the day


Barcelona Cathedral façade


Altar in the Barcelona Cathedral

Detail of the Barcelona Cathedral façade

Medieval-style plaque at the Barcelona Cathedral.

Another view of the Barcelona Cathedral

Bell tower of the church of Santa Anna

Cloister at the church of Santa Anna

Barcelona street

Plaça Sant Felip Neri.  The pock marks on the church are from bombs during the Spanish civil war.

Portrait of Jaime Sabartes by Picasso (not my image).
Compare with the realism of The First Communion shown earlier.

A view of the rooftop of Casa Milà.

Another chimney on the rooftop of Casa Milà.

Another view of the rooftop and chimneys of Casa Milà.

Another chimney.

From the rooftop, looking down into the courtyard.

Another view of the rooftop.