"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..." --John Muir, 1898
It was a long train ride from Madrid to Granada.
Late afternoon I did a self-guided walk of Granada's Old Town. I walked through the Alcaicería (originally a
Moorish silk market), around the cathedral, the Royal Chapel square, Plaza
Isabel La Católica, through Plaza Nueva, down the Paseo de los Tristes that
parallels the Darro river, then continued up a long hill of winding cobblestone
streets to the Albayzín (the Moorish quarter) and the Mirador de San Nicolas, an overlook with spectacular views of
the Alhambra, the ancient Moorish fortress and palace--the main attraction in
Granada.
The next day I visited the cathedral. The façade was striking, but
the interior was grey, cold, and unmemorable. I can't show you because, as they
say, "no photo."
The owner of my hotel gave me a great map of the city and
showed me a lot of places that were "must see," good restaurants, unique
neighborhoods, etc. I spent a good part of the morning walking east of town along the
river.
Back to the heart of town, I visited the Royal Chapel. Again, no photos allowed. The crypt of Ferdinand and Isabella, heroes of Spain, are here below the carved likenesses of the king and queen based on their death masks. The coffins are quite plain considering their lavish surroundings on which, according to the guidebook, the famous royals spent a quarter of their wealth. I was certainly fascinated. Some well-preserved artifacts and fine medieval paintings are displayed here as well.
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