"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..." --John Muir, 1898

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Day 9: Civita to Sorrento

So, Jared and I took everything we needed for two weeks' travel in a (barely) carry-on-size backpack. When you're walking from train to hotel it feels like you're "backpacking" across Italy. I don't know what qualifies for that, but we certainly never felt more like we were backpacking than we did that Sunday.

When I was planning this section of the trip, I heard a rumor that perhaps no buses would be running on Sunday from Bagnoregio to the train station in Orvieto. This was unfortunate, as taxis are very expensive and it is 23 kilometers (about 14 miles) from Bagnoregio to Orvieto.
But, that's the price we pay to cram in as much sightseeing as possible in two weeks. The night before, we had our hostess (and cook and maid, etc.) call for a taxi because, indeed, the rumor was true. We were assured he would be waiting for us at 9 AM. The next morning we hiked down the pedestrian bridge and waited at the agreed upon location. Perhaps we got our wires crossed because around 9:30 Jared and I, seated nervously on the edge of a bench, decided that the taxi wasn't coming after all. What to do? Let's hitchhike!

We walked for many hours and many miles through the Italian countryside. No one would stop for us. Did we have the signal for hitchhiking wrong? Were we inadvertently flipping off scores of Italians? Finally, an older gentleman stopped, rolled down his window and offered us a ride. (Presumably, anyway. We had to resort to body language at this point.)

We hopped in and I sat in the front seat conversing as best I could with my three measly months of Italian. He drove like a maniac, but at least he was getting us as close to Orvieto as he could. We chatted about the countryside, our homes, where he was going to have to drop us off, which happened to be about 2 miles from the train station. We were elated. Not only did I get to practice my Italian, but we were only two miles from the train station! We parted with hearty handshakes and "Ciao"s and began the walk to Orvieto.

The rest of the day is a blur. Somehow we went through Naples, changed trains, and ended up in Sorrento. It was hot and sticky. We found our hostel (a private, spacious, modern room, thank you) and meandered down to the coast for delicious seafood on the deck, touristy (but fun) accordion music, and a well-earned limoncello.


Are we there yet? Strangely, I think this is the only picture either of us took the entire day. I think we were a little exhausted.



The next day can be found here.

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