"Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity..." --John Muir, 1898

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Day 7: Hike to Kilchbalm

Friday

The couple from New Zealand left this morning and Jared and I got up early to see them off. We then had breakfast and planned a hike for the day. There was still a lot of weather swirling about the peaks.

We decided on a trail leading from Gimmewald to a glacial basin below the Gspaltenhorn called Kilchbalm. I can’t tell you how many waterfalls we saw, tumbling down cliffs all around us. There was still so much snow up there, we needed snowshoes. I dragged my gators all the way from the U.S.A., and forgot to put them in my pack before we left for the hike, so both Jared and I were postholing most of the way and getting wet. We came upon an alp house in a little meadow. We saw some delicate wildflowers. We hit several avalanche chutes that had spilled snow and ice onto the trail and we had to maneuver through those. The trail followed a creek, so, along with the waterfalls, there was the constant sound of water.

The hike was certainly worth it. The Gspaltenhorn massif was breathtaking, albeit elusive, and the thunder of avalanches was frequent. I wish my pictures had come out better, but the atmosphere was so thick. I could’ve spent hours in the basin, relaxing, gazing at the peaks, but the clouds were rolling in thicker and it was cold. We headed back. On the way, we could see Gimmewald from high on the trail.

We arrived back at the village and changed into drier clothes and then walked the half hour to Murren to buy supplies for cooking dinner. The evening cleared up and it was a beautiful walk.

There’s something about a hike that gets you intimate with your surroundings in a hurry. It’s not like taking a train or bus through the mountains, or viewing them from afar; you are up close and personal, smelling the earth and tasting the sky (thanks Maggie). We had a relaxing evening at a place that now felt like “home”.



The view from our window that morning. It was still pretty cloudy.






This is looking back down the road toward Gimmewald as we were preparing to leave the pavement and hit the trail.






A typical sign showing the hours and minutes required to walk to various locations. The way to Kilchbalm was supposed to be an hour, but I'm sure that didn't account for the feet of snow we had to battle through.






A wildflower along the trail.






A view of the Gspaltenhorn from a distance. Our trail is on the right, under the melting snow.






The Gspaltenhorn as we drew closer.






Jared on a ridge overlooking part of the massif. We could see better than the camera. Unfortunately, the clouds at the top were too bright and they block the tremendous view.






The cwm at the end of the trail. Again, the peaks (especially the Gspaltenhorn) didn't make an appearance for the camera, so you'll have to take my word for it... they were the most dramatic peaks I'd ever seen.






Looking closely, you'll see Gimmewald in the distance as we make our way back to the village. I believe that is the Monch in the background, and, yes, more waterfalls on the left.






Just one of the many small avalanches raining down from the Gspaltenhorn.






Here's another shot of Gimmewald, resting there quietly on the hillside in the shadow of the Monch.

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